It has started sputtering while I'm cutting grass. It acts as though it's about to die, then revs back up, then revs down, then up. Does this in about 1 second intervals but never actually dies. I've changed the spark plug, drained all gas and replaced with fresh bought gas, changed the oil, cleaned the filter, and tried adding Seafoam carb cleaner.
Have also checked to make sure the vent holes in gas cap aren't blocked.
Still having the problem and have no idea what to do next. Please help! Joined Jun 12, Threads 12 Messages Joined Jun 19, Threads 5 Messages Check the tanklines for dry cracks.
Check carb mount bolts for looseness and the manifold to. Break out the bright light and magnifying glass! Joined May 8, Threads 0 Messages 5.
How to Fix a Sputtering Lawnmower
Sounds to me like the gas in your fuel lines might be clogging up the flow of gas to the engine. I'm the brand manager for a product called Start Your Engines!
Without trying to sound too much like a salesman, I wanted to put out some information about a product we're proud of that does a great job of dissolving gunk in fuel lines and gets equipment started immediately.
Thread starter Dave Start date Aug 18, Dave Forum Newbie. Joined Aug 18, Threads 1 Messages 2. Mower starts right up, give it full throttle and engage blades mows less than a minute then starts to sputter and dies. It will start right back up and do the same thing again. Changed fuel filter, checked gas cap vent, spark plug cleaned and gaped.
EngineMan Lawn Addict. Joined Jun 12, Threads 7 Messages 2, Take out all of the old fuel, yes I know it may well be just a week old but! Run with new fuel. Come back if you feel you need more help. Joined Aug 19, Threads 0 Messages 1. I will tell my story as some of you have described similar troubles, I purchased this CC LT with 42" cut, used, last spring. A month of use and the Kohler courage 20 Hp started losing power and sputtering and then backfiring.
It would always restart and run until put under load. I,read of several similar problems on here, talked with a small engine mechanic and started some actions. I noticed that oil filter was an inexpensive brand and assumed the oil was also changed before I bought so it looked clean.
I drained oil, installed Amsoil 4 stroke small engine oil, put on a new Napa oil filter.Dj 4kerty groove mixtape download
Added Amsoil "Quickshot" to gas. It took a month to get to running better. At first it would go a short time and die again.Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation. Topper wrote: You think that might slow the fuel supply down?
That'll be easy enough to look into. Any other ideas? Topper wrote: I'm getting a lot of sputtering and misfires under hard acceleration in the k rpm range. If I creep up on those high rpms it's fine. But if I'm accelerating hard it sputters when the rpms get high. What I've tried already: Set float levels with clear tube method Cleaned petcock screen Replaced fuel lines and filters Carbs have been cleaned and synced within the past year I'm thinking I need to play with either the main jet size or tweak the needle position.
Any suggestions? Which should I try and would you suggest going leaner or richer? Welcome, Guest. Username: Password: Remember me. Forgot your password? Forgot your username? Create an account. Sputtering Under Hard Acceleration. Sputtering Under Hard Acceleration 05 Jun I'm getting a lot of sputtering and misfires under hard acceleration in the k rpm range.
Kawasaki Motors Recalls Lawn Mower Engines
Permanent and perpetual noob. Has this been an ongoing, long term problem or is it something new? I'm not sure Ed. I'm riding a little harder than I used to. Just a guess, but make sure your fuel tank vent is working properly. Sputtering Under Hard Acceleration 06 Jun You think that might slow the fuel supply down? It's possible. One other thing might be to make sure the timing advancer is lubed and working smoothly; if it is binding that could be a problem.
Sounds like you're steering me away from carburetion as the cause. You don't think this could be related to main jet size or needle position? If you haven't changed the exhaust or gone to air pods I wouldn't mess with the jets or needlesI think Ed is on to something with cleaning and lubing the timing advance.
Do you have a timing light? Last edit: by bluej It is possible that it is a carb jetting issue, but if the carbs have the stock jetting and you are using the stock airbox it seems unlikely the carb jetting is the source of the problem, so before getting into rejetting the carbs I would check out all other things that might cause the stumble. Since the problem wasn't noticed until recently it is possible that something has changed to create the problem.
This could be normal wear on parts that require periodic replacement or something that needs to be cleaned or lubed. It might be best to perform a full tune-up to ensure all the normal maintenance stuff is in spec as this might eliminate the problem. What Filters do you have in your fuel line to carb rack? This may be restricting the flow enough that when demand is at its greatest that it runs the fuel level low.
Post picture of filter or link to it. Be sure that the line doesn't have a Kink anywhere also.Log in or Sign up. Sign up now!
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Messages: My Kawasaki FSv starts perfect half pull seems just fine when I first start. After it starts to get warm it starts to sputter and has a little backfiring. I've noticed that when the blades are engaged and I'm mowing it doesn't do this.
I've replaced the spare plugs, hooked up a spark tester and that shows nothing wrong ignition coil. I did think one of the ignition coils was bad as when I was testing it I had the mower on, I removed the right spark plug connection and the engine RPM dropped and had a little sputter. I don't think the issue is the fuel filter as I would think it would run weird all the time with that. The mower is only 2 years and I'm the second owner so I'm not sure about any other adjustments the previous owner made.
Value adjustment time? I honestly have no clue, but could use some help on this one as I don't feel like taking it in.Murat jashari djali i rifat jasharit
Messages: 4, Sounds like the choke is sticking Posted via Mobile Device. So I was playing with the choke, but no luck.
Any other idea's? Wouldn't hurt to check the valve adjustments. Messages: 20, I had a "casting" plug come out of the top of my carburator reciently causing the same symptoms. When it comes to the engine I have to admit I'm not a pro yet.
For adjusting the values is that something I can do on my own? I guess I can check it out on the forum, etc. For the casting plug where is that located on the carb? Thank you both for your idea'sOne type of backfire that occurs in a 23 HP Kawasaki engine is caused by improper ignition timing. The ignition timing is off, resulting in engagement of the spark plug before the intake valve closes, igniting all the fuel in the cylinder, as well as all the fuel in the manifold leading down from the carburetor.
This causes a loud bang and pop, like a loud engine hiccup. Another type of backfire that can occur in a 23 HP Kawasaki engine is caused by having a poorly tuned carburetor.
If the carburetor isn't working properly, it can get the mixture of fuel and air in the incorrect ratio. Sometimes, too much fuel is delivered to the combustion cylinders for a given amount of air. This is called running rich. The combustion cylinder fires normally, but because there isn't enough air to burn all the fuel, unburnt fuel is sent out the exhaust valve into the exhaust manifold. This unburnt fuel comes into contact with air as it reaches the manifold, and spontaneously ignites.
This is the more traditional type of backfire people think of when they hear the term, with a gust of flame shooting out of the tailpipe. There are two maintenance solutions to prevent a 23 HP Kawasaki engine from backfiring.
Second, the distributor caps should be checked and replaced, if necessary, as minor damage or faults are the most likely cause of incorrect ignition timing. This article was written by the It Still Works team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.
To submit your questions or ideas, or to simply learn more about It Still Works, contact us. Fixes There are two maintenance solutions to prevent a 23 HP Kawasaki engine from backfiring.
About the Author This article was written by the It Still Works team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.Driving should be smooth. However, if your fuel gauge is full it could be a symptom of further engine problems. A blocked fuel injector can prevent fuel from reaching the combustion chambers.Replace cp3 pump cummins
There are a lot of different reasons which could cause a sputtering engine. Here are a few of the most common symptoms. However, plugs wear out and can no longer function as intended. In this case, you will have lots of unburnt fuel with causes misfires and the engine to sputter.
During your next service, ensure that you have your plugs replaced. Faulty spark plugs will cause misfires, which can be identified by sputtering.
The fuel injectors play the role of spraying fuel into the combustion chambers. This is then mixed with air and ignited by the spark plugs. When the fuel filter is dirty, then you have less fuel going to the combustion chambers. This will cause your car to experience slow acceleration. You can clean your fuel injectors and the problem may be solved. The car has a set of vacuum hoses that, with time, develop leaks. This will cause the engine to produce a sputtering sound when the air-fuel mixture gets too rich or too lean.
The combustion chamber requires the right amount of fuel and air. Modern engines have an onboard computer that monitors the flow of these components. The mass airflow sensors ensure that the right amount of air is supplied to the combustion chambers. When the sensors get saturated with dirt particles, they can no longer relay the right information to the ECU.
This will cause more or less air going to the combustion chambers. You can solve this problem by having them cleaned. The internal combustion engine works through the ignition of fuel and air mixture.
Exhaust gases are produced as byproducts and these flow through the manifold and then to the atmosphere. The catalytic converter is vital for removing harmful compounds from the exhaust like hydrogen monoxide and carbon monoxide. These gases are then converted to less harmful inert gases.
When there is a leak in the exhaust system, then these gases will start escaping before they reach the tailpipe.
Kawasaki FH770D 28HP sputtering under heavy load
You will hear a sputtering sound. The catalytic converter plays a vital role in removing harmful gases from the exhaust. When the catalytic converter is faulty, some of these gases will find their way to the tailpipe.Mechanic said that it was water in the gas It still stalls after about ten minutes of running, and then may start back up when it's cold I've been thinking that it is a coil problem.Collezione bikini yamamay 2020
That's the only thing left unchecked because it fired up at the shopso they sent it home And I am curiouse to know a safe way to check a coil while the engine is hot I have a multimeter, I just don't know how to use it on a coilor what readings I may be looking for.
Thanks for any advice I can get Slacker.
I have a turf tiger scaggs with a 27 horse Kawasaki it runs for about 10 minutes and then quits running at that time it is not firing I have replaced the coals replace the plugs replaced the fuel pump I have also clean the flywheel the magnets Not sure what else it could be. It sounds like it could be the gas cap vent, check the cap there is a vent in it. I have a kohlor 19 hp that starts up and runs for a minute or so and shuts off. I replaced the ignition mod,carb,fuel filter,spark plug air filter and still have the same problem.
Put in fresh gas and checked the gas cap. Whats going onHelp. Any help would be appreciated. I have a GX go kart motor and I am having issues running it after it's warmed up and under load. I have totally stripped and cleaned the carb, cleaned and blown out the jets and ports on it also. I've also replaced the carb gaskets at the same time.
I have replaced the ignition coil with a brand new one also sanded the slight rust which was visible on the flywheel magnets. Replaced the spark plug with a new one, replaced the fuel and fuel lines plus fuel filter. Reset the valve clearances and replaced head gasket. At the time I removed the cylinder head the rocker assembly and valves appeared in good condition. I also checked the flywheel key and it was in good condition. Being the fact it starts and runs, would it be safe to say I can eliminate compression as a fault?
I really am at a loss of what else it could be Check the gas cap vent first. It only takes a second. Just when engine starts to sputter, unscrew the cap. My mower started running perfect the second I unscrewed the cap. An interesting twist to this problem is that the more fuel you have in the tank, the less time it takes for a vacuum to develop and starve the engine of fuel.
If your tank is half full, it might run for long enough to make you think you have a faulty coil that is failing when hot. If your tank is topped off, it might die in a minute or two, leading you to think it is a fuel filter or carb problem.
Answer 4 years ago. I have a zero turn Kohler engine lawn mower. Runs fine until it warms up then it seems to be running on only one cylinder. I did check the gas cap. Change the gas filter spark plugs and air filter. Then all the sudden it starts to run good again.
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